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When I started my post earlier today, I thought I was going to write about why I had to cut my Provincetown writing trip short. But as often happens when I sit down to write, the words take me somewhere else.

Two and a half weeks ago, I packed up four file boxes of writing, a bin full of writing tools (pads, pens, extra computer, many books, printer cartridges, label maker – of course!) and headed off to Provincetown for my annual writing retreat. I’d booked four weeks this year – two of them in residence at the Fine Arts Work Center where I took my first writing class in 2001 and two of them at the Cape Codder Guest House where I have taken refuge every year since then. I was excited as I drove the 10 hours to my destination (in two days) and thrilled as I set up my computer on the desk in studio 4.

Unfortunately, by the first evening, I had a sort throat. By the second, I was blowing my nose non-stop, and by the third I was in bed, trying to find my voice again, and cursing the germ that had settled into my lungs. Grandchildren germs, I thought, remembering the coughs my daughter and her children were sharing freely before I left Ottawa.

I didn’t curse for long, however. Instead (perhaps miraculously) I found myself contemplating what opportunities being sick was offering to me. No, I didn’t think it was meant to be that I should get sick. But yes, I did find myself thinking, as I often do when I get sick, about the fragility of health, and life itself. As I lay in bed in this foreign land, I found myself appreciating the Canadian health care where I could visit a doctor without ever seeing a bill. (I’m always a little scared when I get sick in the US as I do NOT want to have to visit a US medical facility!) I appreciated my family (even as I wished I were closer to them at that moment), the many drug store items I had brought with me so that I didn’t have to spend precious American dollars, and the super duper soft Kleenex I splurged on, to soothe my weary nose.

I thought about how little I really needed – a salad from the health food store within easy walking distance, some chicken from Farland, my favourite lunch and provisions store. The lack of sun (and abundance of rain) made it that much easier to lie in bed and read or watch Netflix – and if I ran out of reading material, Provincetown’s fabulous library was just up the street.

For the most part I wasn’t able to write (hence the lack of blog posts for the past while), except for some scribbled pages at Harbor Lounge, three small blocks from my studio, with a fabulous view of the bay and the wharf (and wonderful cocktails and wine -the sign says it all – no food, just booze!)

By the end of the first weekend, I was feeling pretty proud of myself for being able to manage on my own. That’s when I noticed that I was scratching my head far more than usual – in fact, I was crazy itchy. The explanation arrived on Monday morning, when my daughter told me her children had lice. A quick try to the Shop and Stop (as I call it) for a comb and conditioner and I soon discovered that I too had lice. Not a million, but really, isn’t one more than enough.

I have to admit I was ready to throw in the towel at that point. Coughing, blowing my nose, achy, and now, LICE. My intrepid partner soon tracked down a lice lady on Cape Cod and urged me to give her a call. Feeling somewhat ashamed (who feels good about having lice?) I called the expert known as The Picky One. She sounded lovely – very matter of fact but kind – and we arranged for her to come to my studio the following day at noon.

To say I enjoyed our time together would be pushing it. She was, after all, picking nits off of my head. But we talked about aging parents and caregiving, and the challenges of dealing with children and parents at the same time. I told her about my book. She told me about how her father’s death had changed her. Before she left, she bought a copy of my book, and the next day, wrote to tell me she was crying by page 6 – while offering reassurances about my itchy head.

Many many loads of laundry and trips to the somewhat grungy laundromat later, I was ready to pack it in. I itched, I was still coughing and blowing my nose, and I still felt pretty miserable. My partner flew down to “rescue” me, we spent a beautiful sunny day in Provincetown, and then headed back home. As I packed up all the things I hadn’t used, file boxes unopened, art bag untouched, books unread, I admit to feeling regret that my retreat had not been as I had hoped.

But my time in Provincetown provided me with some important reminders – about taking care of myself, about letting go of expectations, about being with whatever happens. It reminded me of how much I like my life with its fixed points: hospice, volunteering with kindergarten children, playing the ukulele, spending time with my family and friends, walking by the river, singing in my choir. And I’m happy to be home again.

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